Sani Pass connects the pleasant, rolling hills of South Africa’s ‘midlands’, with the remote, inhospitable mountains of Lesotho. This results in one of the most spectacular and iconic mountains passes in Africa. When planning my bike tour through Africa, I was urged to ride up Sani Pass; with plans to pave it, there is only so long you can cycle it in all its bumpy, off-road glory.
Why Ride Sani?
Sani Pass is iconic. It began as a trading route used by Basothos and their donkeys to transport goods down from the mountains to KwaZulu-Natal. In 1948, a jeep became the first vehicle to make it to the top, taking 5 gruelling hours to cover the treacherous 9 kilometres. This soon sparked interest and inspired other people to challenge themselves to drive up. By 1955 a tourist company had opened, taking tourists to the top. That company still operates today, driving thousands of tourists up every month. Sani Pass remains a formidable challenge; by cycling up you join a long line of people who have pitted themselves against nature to conquer Africa’s famous Sani Pass.
Sani Pass is steep, reaching gradients of 25%, and it is also loose, rocky and in a remarkable state of disrepair. I feel confident saying it is impossible to cycle the whole way on a loaded touring bike. I’m not ashamed to admit I spent hours dragging my bike up much of the climb. If you have cycled the whole thing on a loaded bike, let me know and I’ll be very impressed!
Plans to pave Sani Pass are controversial, with many locals objecting to it, arguing that Sani Pass would lose its character and charm. Certainly, the challenge and adventure - the very appeal of the route - would be lost, and the tourist industry would suffer. A smooth road is currently being built to the South African border. It is unclear if the No Man’s Land section will suffer the same fate next. Sani Pass will always have spectacular views to the Drakensberg Mountains, but if you want to really understand what it is all about, get on your bike and ride it now!
Where to Sleep
There are plenty of places to sleep within striking distance of Sani Pass. Himeville and Underberg are both sizeable villages, and Sani Lodge Backpackers is at the bottom offering cheap hostel and camping facilities.
As usual, I didn’t want to pay to sleep. There were a few wild camping spots, but generally the valley was too steep to pitch a tent, so I asked the South African Border Official if I could set my tent up at the border post. He agreed and showed me the toilets and water tap. I could camp here for free and tackle Sani Pass the next morning.
Just after sunset, a jeep pulled up, and the occupants introduced themselves as Bruce and Taz, two filmmakers making a CNN documentary about Sani Pass (that’s how iconic it is!). They wanted to ask me some questions about cycling it.
After the interview, they invited me back to their guesthouse. I left my bike with the border guards and drove to Himeville with them. We exchanged stories from our adventures, and ate a feast. It would be my final decent meal before reaching the capital of Lesotho a week later.
The next morning they drove me to my bike, said goodbye, and filmed me with a drone pedalling into the jaws of nature, and being swallowed by Sani Pass.
Riding up Sani Pass
Don’t be fooled by the deceptively gentle start to the climb. The road winds through the Mkomazana Valley, just beside the trickling stream that carved out this mighty valley. The further you go, the more impenetrable the mountains become, with valley walls that constrict around you and lofty mountain peaks that tower above. Ahead, a vertical kilometre of mountain wall appears to block all forward progress.
I stopped to stare at this wall and wonder how the road managed to navigate around it, It never crossed my mind that I might be going over it. Suddenly, I spotted the late afternoon sun glinting off an ant-sized car tackling a steep set of switchbacks at the top. The car was insignificant compared to this vertical mountain face, and it felt unbelievable that I would get my bike to the top.
Into No Man’s Land
9 kilometres of No Man’s Land separate South Africa and Lesotho, and after getting your passport stamped from South Africa, this is where the climbing truly begins; over just 9km you must will ascend a staggering 1,332 metres to reach the summit at 2,876m. I spent most of this pushing my bike.
A constant flow of jeeps passed me, mostly with cameras thrust out the window to document the crazy cyclist riding up Sani Pass. They were quick to clap and wave, and a few offered to put my bike in the back and drive me up. ‘No Way!’ I exclaimed, I was having too much fun tackling this giant to give up.
Sani Pass is unusual because you can see the entire climb from almost any point along it. Some might find it daunting to see how much more is left, but I found it reassuring to watch the summit edging closer. Due to the steep gradients I gained height rapidly and was soon level with the mountains I had craned my neck to see only an hour earlier. Looking back, I was shocked by how the South African border post shrunk beneath me.
Sani Pass reserves the most challenging section for last, with the final section steeper and more strewn with boulders than anywhere before. The track lunges from one switchback into the next, with each giddying turn rewarded with one of the iconic Sani Pass vantage points photographed a thousand times before. From here you can fully appreciate the splendour of the Drakensburg Mountains, and the incredible way the path snakes its way to the top. You cannot help but simultaneously be impressed by the work of nature, and of man.
On these final metres, you are likely feeling energy-sapping effects of altitude. It was like an Everest mountaineer that I reached the summit, with trudging steps, stopping every few steps to gather my breath and carry on.
Reaching Sani Top
Sani Pass pays only a vague interest to the seasons, and even in December (summer), it was -3°C and snowing at the top, a few days before I was there. For much of winter, the pass is snow-covered and impassable. Lesotho truly deserves its nickname as the ‘Mountain Kingdom’.
I leant against the summit sign to have a proud photo at the top. Nearby, a group of German tourists were stretching their legs after sitting in the car for so long. They asked to have a photo with my bike without me, so they could pretend they had cycled to the top. I appreciated their sense of humour, and victorious summit poses. They were far too energetic to have really cycled up!
A basic shack, more dilapidated that its South African counterpart, forms the Lesotho border post. A tax is levied on vehicles entering Lesotho, but bicycles are free, which makes it quick to get stamped and into Lesotho.
Your Sani Pass adventure ends like all great adventures should… with a beer! Overlooking the climb at the top is Sani Pass Lodge which holdes the accolade as Africa’s highest pub. From here you can buy a bottle of Maluti, Lesotho’s beer, renowned because of the clean mountain water used to make it. Of course, I didn’t have to buy my own beer, many people had seen my battle to reach the top, and a South African couple on a motorbike had a beer waiting for me already. Cheers!
Beyond Sani Pass... Into Lesotho
If you like mountains, Lesotho is a great country for a bike tour. From Sani Top, the tourist jeeps return to South Africa and you will have peaceful roads and authentic, untouristed Basotho villages to yourself.
From here the road is well-paved to Mokhotlong, and you have an epic downhill ahead. But wait! Before you enjoy that downhill, there is another killer climb; Black Mountain Pass lies a few kilometres further, and takes you up to 3,240 metres elevation, nearly 400 metres higher than Sani Pass. I made the mistake of assuming Sani was the top, and really suffered for it on Black Mountain Pass.
My blog post on cycling across Lesotho is coming soon!
I like this post so much , it s very exiting and full of funny stories inside, I couldn’t wait for Lesotho EP
Glad you enjoyed it! =)
Love it, love it, #LIVE IT!
You are a tough guy to get up that mountain pass, especially after your ocean stint using different muscles!…I suppose there was Christmas in between, so at least you will have been well fed?
It’s fascinating to read about, thanks ….any hints about a book yet?…not that you’ve any spare time! X Sheila
As you say, the trouble is getting around to finding the time!! Thanks Sheila