A difficult border crossing: Entering Myanmar from India

I hate pointless bureaucracy. Officially, part of the clause of my Myanmar visa is that I have to exit from the same border I entered from. I don’t want to do this. I want to enter Myanmar from India and exit Myanmar to Thailand. The India – Myanmar border is a complicated one anyway, as […]

Adventure and Misadventure in East Nepal

Amazing arcithecture at building in Bhaktapur Durbar Square in kathmandu

My time in Kathmandu was frustrating. I had been lucky to stay with some fun, easy-going guys for 10 days, and enjoyed the wealth of attractions the city boasts (7 UNESCO heritage sites), but my time was consumed by near-daily trips to embassies chasing up visas for India and Myanmar, instead of the intrepid hiking […]

Cycling Far-West Nepal: The World’s Happiest People?

Nepali boy child with cycle.

Think Nepal. Mountains. The heart of the Himalaya. Mighty Mount Everest. This is what most people (including me) think of, and why most people come. But actually, surprisingly, the mountains fall sharply away and the southern third of the country called the Terai is extremely flat and low-lying. Few tourists manage to drag themselves away […]

Miracle in North India

There’s a theory called the six degrees of separation. If you took all your friends and acquaintances, and then all their friends and acquaintances, and then all their friends and acquaintances, and so on six times, you would know everyone in the whole world. That’s how tiny and connected our world is! Amazing huh? Well, […]

Cycling Southern India – Kanyakumari to Mumbai

I pedalled from mainland India’s southernmost point, Kanyakumari with no plan except to head north. Understandable, two weeks earlier I had been expecting to be in China by now. The past week I had contacted a handful of Indian friends and friends of friends asking where the most beautiful, ‘must-see’ places were. When they mentioned […]

Reaching India – Time to cycle again!

My last blog post, now nearly three months ago, made the shock announcement that after my Chinese visa had been denied cutting me off from progressing further east, I would be flying to India to resume my journey from there. The extended silence on my blog testifies to what a miraculous, intense and incredible experience […]

High Altitude Cycling on the Pamir Plateau: Alichur to Osh

My memories of cycling from Alichur to Osh are hazy. This section forms the ‘Pamir Plateau’; the road flattens out slightly but hovers around the 4,000 metre mark, except for the handful of times it climbs even higher, eventually peaking at 4,655 metres on the lung-bursting Ak-Baital pass, notorious amongst cyclists. Having ascended to the […]

My Chinese visa was denied! What now?!

Visa Application Denied Stamp Showing Entry Admission Refused

Everything was going to plan. I’d survived the Pamir Highway, and China loomed giant ahead. I would soon be in Bishkek, where I could rest and party in equal proportions while I waited for my Chinese visa. 3 months earlier this would have passed without incident, but a recent change in visa policy meant I […]

The Wakhan Valley: Khorog to Alichur

Away from the main Pamir Highway (M41), a myriad of smaller and less-travelled tracks await those cyclists looking for even more adventure and don’t mind riding on some pretty rough stuff! Among these, the most popular is the Wakhan Valley, which is raved about wildly by those cyclists who rise to the challenge. I pedalled […]

Qalai-Khumb to Khorog: A stone’s throw from Afghanistan

Reaching Qalai-Khumb had been an exciting moment for two reasons; firstly, I had joined up with the main road again, and I couldn’t wait for the road to be paved once again. Secondly, I saw my first glimpse of the River Panj, which I would cycle beside for the next 500km. The significance of this […]